Chapter IV: Tools & Hygiene

Brushes, Sponges and Fingers

Synthetic brush fibers are now the default for most uses. They absorb little product, so liquids and creams go further, and they are easy to wash. Natural hair, traditionally goat or squirrel, picks up and diffuses powder softly, but it needs gentler care. A small kit covers most needs: a foundation brush or sponge, a concealer brush, a fluffy powder brush, an angled blush brush, a flat shadow brush, a fluffy blending brush and a fine angled brush for brows and liner.

Damp sponges press product into skin for a seamless, natural finish and are well suited to cream and liquid formulas. Fingers, warmed by the body, melt creams and concealers smoothly; wash your hands before and after.

Cleaning Schedule

Product, oil and dead skin build up in tools and give bacteria somewhere to grow. The schedule below reflects widely shared professional guidance; heavy use calls for more frequent washing.

To wash, wet the fibers with lukewarm water, keeping the bristles pointed down so water does not loosen the glue in the ferrule. Work a little gentle soap or brush cleanser into the fibers in your palm, rinse until clear, squeeze out water, reshape, and dry flat or hanging downward. Never dry brushes upright in a cup.

Reading the Label

Two marks deserve attention. The period-after-opening symbol, an open jar with a number and "M", gives the months a product stays good after opening: 3M for mascara and liquid liners, often 6M to 12M for foundations and creams, 24M or more for many powders. Some products instead show a "best before" date, which in the EU is required when shelf life is 30 months or less.

The ingredient list uses INCI, the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, so the same ingredient carries the same name worldwide. Ingredients present above one percent are listed in descending order of concentration; those below one percent may follow in any order. If you know you react to a specific ingredient, INCI lets you find it on any pack.

Signs of Spoilage

Whatever the label says, trust your senses. Discard any product that has changed smell, separated in a way that does not remix, grown a crust or film, changed color, or begun to cause itching or stinging. Store products closed, away from heat, steam and direct sun; a hot car or a steamy bathroom shortens their life.

How Cosmetics Are Regulated

In the European Union, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, applied since 11 July 2013, requires each product to have a safety assessment and a named "responsible person", and to be notified through the Cosmetic Products Notification Portal before sale. Its annexes list banned and restricted substances and permitted colorants, preservatives and UV filters.

In the United States, the FDA regulates cosmetics under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act of 1938. The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act, signed in December 2022, added facility registration, product listing, mandatory reporting of serious adverse events and safety substantiation requirements. Sunscreen claims are regulated as over-the-counter drugs in the United States.

Reference Notes